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ON 



CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM: 



CONTAINING 



FIFTY DIAGRAMS AND DESIGNS 



REDUCED TO 



MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLES. 



%. 



ACCOMPANIED BY 



A PEKIODICAL EEPORT OF FASHIONS. 

YU^ B3r kcOTT & WILSON, 

146 BROADWAY. 



NEW YORK: 
1841. 






Southern District of JVeiv York, ss. 

Be it Remembered, That on the twenty-iiinih day of June, Anno Domini 1841, Scott & Wilson, of the said 
Oistrict, have deposited at this Office the title of a Book, the title of which is in the words following, to wit : 

" A Treatise on Cutting Garments to fit the Human Form ; containing Fifty Diagrams and Designs, reduced tc 
Mathematical Principles. Accompanied by a Periodical Report of Fashions. By Scott & Wilson, 146 Broadway." 

The right whereof they claim as Authors and Proprietors, in conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled " An 
Act to amend the several Acts respecting copy-rights." 

CHAS. D. BETTS, 
Clerk of the Southern District of JVetc York. 



v>r/ 






f-/;5f''/ 



PREFACE. 

In offering this Work for the patronage of the Trade, the Authors think proper to suggest some of the reasons 
which have induced them to pubhsh so copious a treatise at this time. 

In the year 1827, Mr. Wilson, of the present firm, invented and secured the patent for the Square and Scales 
accompanying the Square Rule System, — which last, he secured by copy-right. Subsequently — by invention, purchase 
and the securing by copy rights — he became owner of all the systems taught in this country by the Square Rule, until 
this establishment changed owners in 1834, when Mr. Scott came into the concern. The various editions published 
since that period, have been almost exclusively confined to the Shoulder-Measure System — waiving the republication 
of the various Breast-Measure Systems, and those on Measurement, to some subsequent period, when the members 
of the firm should be better able to take up the subject in full, and give to it that extraordinary attention which one 
of so great importance necessarily demanded. In the mean time — while we were anxiously looking forward to the 
time when we hoped to be able to do proper justice to our patrons and ourselves, by publishing a compilation of all 
our rights on the subject of Cutting — our ears were frequently saluted with the names of upstarts in our business, who 
relied for patronage upon the sole gicund of having shown themselves capable of copying some one of the systems 
which had long since been secured to us by Patent or Copy-right. 

The fact which caused the greatest regret, was that about all of the beginners in the sale of infringements upon 
our publications, were either those who had travelled as agents for this establishment until they had become so indebted 
that they could procure no more systems on credit, or persons who — having learned some one of our system.s — thought 
it superior to any other ; and being persons of no fixed principles, thought they could — by merely changing a line on 
the draft — evade the penalty of the law ; and thus risking the wear and tear of conscience, and the penalties of the 
law, have pursued a grovelling, self-degrading course, until many of them have lost even the flickering spark of moral 
sensibility, which was scarcely perceptible when they first engaged in their present abandoned course. 

The rule-venders above alluded to, have not only done us great injustice, but they have robbed many of the trade 
of their hard earnings, for scarcely a shadow of an equivalent ; and justice demands that their career of mischief bo 
properly checked, which can only be effectually done by placing in the hands of the trade a work comprising about all 
the rules extant, so that when a catch-penny enters the store of any of our patrons, he may see the work copied by him 
iis readily as he could the likeness of himself in a mirror. 

The reason above noticed is not without weight in inducing a publication of this kind, but we trust we are governed 
by another, of paramount importance. It is known that, previous to this publication, there was only one of the kind, 
which was sufficiently full and diversified to give a student a partial idea of the plans for cutting every variety of gar- 
ments which the practical artist is called upon to furnish. The one alluded to was published by Mr. Wilson in 1S33, 
and contains 40 Diagrams and Desisns of Garments, with Explanations, and bound in morocco. We believe that the 
interests of the Trade demand, at this time, a standard work on Cutting, and while we feel diffident of sufficient ability 
to render a work of this kind so unexceptionable as to ensure the general praise of the American Tailor of this 
generation, we cannot look forward to the next— when the Trade will have advanced at the same ratio which, within 
the last fifteen years, has raised it so high in a knowledge of the Trade, and in the eyes of the world — without 
claiming, as an excuse for our misjudgment, the present comparative infancy in works of this kind, and a want of those 
precedents which are the result only of a liberal, free interchange of opinions, in matters relating to our art, by all tho.=e 
of skilful practice in the business. 

Notwithstanding the present dearth of knowledge on the subject upon which this work treats, we are aware there 
must be a commencement in the publication of such works as are fit for a Tailors vocabulary ; and we therefore, with 
a zeal befitting the subject, have laid hold of every thing which we concluded would materially benefit the Trade, and 
the present volume is the result of much experience, labor, investigation and expense, which is most respectfullv 
iledicated to the Tailors of the United States, 

By their Respectful and Ob't Serv'ts, 

SCOTT & WILSON. 



GENERAL CONTENTS, ARGUMENT, &c., &c. 

The various Systems published with this work are founded upon measurement for the regulation of all permanent 
points in a Coat, or u[)on proportions of such measures as have been approved by experience, for forming those parts 
which give ilt and balance to garments. 

Measurement — by forming an angle in front of the scye, (as invented by Mr. Henderson, of Zanesville, Ohio, 
now member of the Legislature of that State,) and measuring from said angle, to regulate the length of both shoulder 
points, and the pitch of the shoulder and waist, as also to govern several other points — is laid down in a plain form, 
with the mode the various measures are taken and applied; carefully directed and marked. This system, as also 
several others of pretended recent invention, is founded upon the theory of obtaining the distance from the top of the 
Coat to the bottom of the scye, at some point on a line around the body, parallel with the bottom of the scye, whicli 
plan was first secured by Patent in the year 1S27, by Mr. Wilson, by what was termed the Square Rule System, with 
Standard and Measurement. To the Standard, invented by Mr. Wilson, there was attached several sliding arms, and 
elastic straps to slide up under the arms, and thus form a line parallel with the bottom of the scye from the front 
ot' both scyes across the back, for getting the distances from the top of the Coat at the neck, to such points on the 
parallel line thus formed, as the cutter might require. This Patent, therefore, secured the fundamental principle 
of Measurement, upon which all the works that now treat upon the subject are based ; and it is very questionable, 
whether this plan is not more practicable than any one invented since, with the single exception, that the principle invented 
by Mr. Henderson requires that a strap be used of sufficient length to extend round the body, close under the arms, 
and clasp at front — thus enabling the cutter to form a starting point on the breast, from which to measure back !nd 
upward to the socket-bone, and over the shoulder to a point on the back-seam for pitching the shoulder properly. This 
will be noticed as an hnportant desideratum, for it is a well established fact, that all proof-measures may agree, and 
.still the garment be out of balance. A strap extending round the body, is also preferable to one extending only pan 
way, for by what means can it be ascertained how close to apply a measure that extends only from the front of the 
scye to the back-seam ! For, if too loose, the customer does not feel it ; and if too tight, it is the same : and the 
whole dependence for a correct measure rests upon the experience and judgment of the measurer ; and without practice, 
there can be no experience — consequently, the; student has no guarantee for those correct results so essential, and in 
fact, vital, to the success and reputation of a beginner in business. 

The Shoulder-Measure System (or the system regulating the permanent points in garments by proportions 
of proof-measures) is illustrated in the publication so plainly, as to show the various applications, and the bearing they 
severally have over the different points in a garment that give ilt and shape about the shoulders. 

There are several plans of Measurement contained in this work, an examination of which cannot fail to enlist the 
attention of the practical cutter, as well for their feasibility as their simplicity ; and our present limits forbidding a 
detailed explanation of each, we therefore refer the reader to the plates and explanations contained in the body 
of the work. 

The proportions of the Breast-Measure — as baing the oldest, best understood, and easiest mode to measure and 
cut by — has been carefully revised, and brought up to the present standard of taste. We are aware there are many 
cutters in this country, among the most talented in the profession, who prefer the Breast-Measure System. The secret 
in the success of such persons, is attributable to their great care in taking and applying proof-measures ; for it is self- 
evident, that the size at the breast is no criterion for the pitch of, and shape about the shoulders. For, while three 
persons agree in size around the breast, they may all differ in shape and position, so as to require three differently 
shaped garments to fit them. There are some persons of the trade who alter for the different forms according to the 
(hrections of their judgment, which furnishes a reason for the great difference in the shape of garments that are cut 
l)y those who use one system, and endeavor to cut according to the same fashion. It was by a knowledge of this fact 
by Mr. Wilson in 1S27, that brought forth the invention of the Standard and its various slides and measuring aparatus, 
as heretofore noticed ; and we now challenge all the pretended authors on Measurement, to produce a theory inch- 



pendent of this, that has any merit at all. We would not wish (o be understood as mentioning this for self-nraUilalicii, 
but from a tinn conviction that, apart from this theory, riz. — ascertaining the distance from the top of (he Coat to 
the bottom of the scye — whether measured up or down — there is no improvement on Measurement since the Standard 
was patented, except the point on the breast toward the front, to get the pitch of the shoulder by, and which belongs 
to us, — having purchased the improvement of Mr. Henderson, as above mentioned ; and which improvement, could 
not have been made without the original ; for the law on patents, requires that each principle secured by patent shall be 
original in itself; consequently, all patents on Measurement, dated since the one for the Standard, and dependent for 
their successful operation upon the distances secured by that patent, must have been an infringement upon it, and 
subject to the penalty of the law in all such cases. It remains therefore, for the Trade to judge, whether there is anv 
System of Measurement wholly independent of the measures secured by the patent for the Standard and its aparalus. 

There are persons also, who cut by the Breast-Measure, in consequence of a prejudice that has obtained with 
many, by reason of their having previously adopted some mode of measuring and application, which was warrnnird as 
self-varying, when — by use — it was found to come so far short of varying to the different forms of men, that it did not 
even change the shape of the fore-part and sleeves, to conform with backs differently shaped, though intended for the 
same individual. This, we say, has induced many to distrust all new theories, and return to the old mode of dividing 
the Breast-Measure, as the only alternative ; which, if imperfect in theory, will however enable them to avoid utterly 
spoiling garments, and by great care in the application of proof-measures, generally ensure a respectable fit. 

After fifteen years experience by practical men, upon theories differing from any before practiced upon, and 
furnishing — as those invented at that time did— the means and scope for investigation ; and after the ingenuity of the 
whole Trade in Europe, as well as America, having been taxed to its utmost for so many years, in aiming to furnish 
an unerring system for cutting garments, it seems almost egotistical to claim, at this late day, the authorship of prin- 
ciples — new to the Trade — surpassing, in facility and correctness, all previous inventions, and calling upon the giants 
of the Trade for their scrupulous investigation. Yet, however vaunting or self-conceited it may appear, we are con- 
strained to state, in truth and justice to ourselves, that this new work contains rules for Cutting — as simple and easy 
of practice as they are perfect in theory — calculated to add to the fund of knowledge already acquired by those of hard 
studying and long practice in our business, beyond any work of the kind hitherto offered to the Trade for patronage. 
While this work cannot fail to benefit persons of experience and taste, it presents advantages of inestimable value to 
the student who has just commenced practice in the art, and looking forward with a steady aim toward that enviable 
notoriety, which, without a superior knowledge of his business, he can never reasonably expect to obtain. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATENT STANDARD. 

Make a Standard of seven feet in length, and about one and a half inch thick ; let it be divided into inches and 
half inches, and supported by proper feet, or made to fasten at the foot, so as to incline the top according to the natural 
position of the customer. 

Attach several slides to the Standard, as follows : — One near the lop, to which is attached a slide crossing the 
Standard at right angles, and intended for measuring the stoop at the neck — being inched, and moveable in the slide. 
Another will be placed below, with a brass or steel band attached to it, long enough to extend across the back and 
under the arms. This is intended for sliding up under the arms, to show the distance the customer measures from the 
neck to a point on the back at the centre, opposite the bottom of the arms. To this cross-strap extending under the 
arms, there are two measures attached, for taking the distance around the shoulders, (see directions with the specifica- 
tion of patent, and directions in copy-right granted to James G. Wilson, February 2Sth, 1827.) There is also a 
moveable slide, with an inched slide, (the same as the one for finding the stoop at the neck,) for ascertaining the 
hollow of the waist at the back. There is also another slide opposite the hips, with a piece attached, forming a Grecian 
cross. There may also be a slide attached, with an arm for sliding to the fork, for ascertaining the length of inside 
seam of Pantaloons. 

For further directions, see engraving in this work representing the Standard 

Directions for Dividing the J\Ieasures. 

Should the measure from 1 around the front and bottom of scye and back to 1, be 26, 13 inches would be the 
one-half. This half is divided into halves, fourths, eighths, sixteenths, and thirty-seconds. It is again divided into 
thirds, sixths, twelfths, and twenty-fourths. Should the measure from 2 to 2 be 2.5, 124 inches would be the half; and 
this would be divided into halves, fourths, eighths, -ixteenths, and thirty-seconds. It should be again divided into 
thirds, si.\ths, twelfths, and twenty-fourths. 

The number of measures to be thus divided is 18, including the measures from 17 to 34 inches inclusive. Thin 
strips of paper maybe divided as above directed, and the proportions marked with ink, and the strips pasted on paste- 
board, and they will answer as well as the Square and Scales to draft a good fit by ; but as the Square and Scales can 
be used with more facility, the divisions on paper will only be substituted until the Square and Scales can be sent by 
private hand, as they cannot be sent by mail. 

The scale divided from the measure taken from 1 to 1, will be used to obtain the distance directed by every 
sentence that is marked thus * ; and the scale divided from the measure taken from 2 to 2, will be used to obtain all 
distances not marked as above This is confined, however, to the first nine engravings in this Treatise, as all others 
are not indicated for the use of the different Shoulder-Measures by the star 



DESCRIPTION AND USE OF THE SQ,UARE AND SCALES. 

The numbers on the long arm of the Square in the space where the strips are used, beginning with No. 45 and 
running to 49, are the halves of the sizes they represent, as the scales are too short to admit them. The scales, or 
strips, have four different sizes on each one, and there are two scales of each size used at a time, placed on the long 
and short arms of the Square, and held to their places by springs. On the short arm of the Square, commencing at 2 
and running to 5| inches, is a wire extending for the purpose of fastening the end of an inch-measure to, for taking the 
length of inside-seam for pantaloons. On the back of the Square, figures representing the inches, and running from 
1 to 21 inches, are intended ior taking the length of fork-seam of pantaloons at the top, when taking the length 
of inside-scam. 

fjUjr' When draftmg by the Shoulder-Measure System, it will frequently be found necessary to use two scales 
of diflereiit sizes at a time ; as, for instance — should the measures from 1 to 1 and from 2 to 2 ditTer in size, the cutter 
will, in such case, use them both, and draft by each as represented by the different Shoulder-Measure Systems. 

Description and Use of the JVeiv Square. 

Let a common square be made of wood or metal, of about two feet in the long arm, and one foot in the short 
arm, and about one and a half inches wide ; on it, place the inches in the centre of the front surface ; and near the front 
and inside edges place the tables according to the distances required to produce the points necessary to give the drafts 
on Plates 11, 12, 13, &c. 

Table A, commencing at 8 inches and running to 15', is a division of the whole shoulder-measure, and producer 
the front of scye. Table D, on the inside of the square, commencing at 6J inches and running to 14 inches^ is a 
division of the whole shoulder-measure used to find the centre of scye at 21, and establishes 22 on Plate 11. Tablt 
F, commencing at 3| inches and running to 7 inches, is J of scye, and produces the width of scye as from 15 to 16 
on Plate 11. Table B, on the short arm of the square, commencing opposite 2^ to 9 inches, is to obtain the distances 
iVom 13 to 17, being the bottom of scye , also, to obtain the width of back from 5 to 6 on Plate 11, &c. To use this 
square, take the number that the man measures round the shoulder, and the same number in the table will produc< 
the points required ; and in measuring round the arm where the scye would come, the size of that measure is used in 
ihe tables B and F, to find the bottom and width of scye. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE RULER. 

Let a Ruler be made from 16 to 24 inches long, one-eighth of an inch thick, and about 2 inches wide. Allow 
half an inch space in the centre, upon which indent the inches, halves and quarters. At each side of the space, or line- 
of inches, the tables agreeing with proportions of the Shoulder-Measures, and proportions of such other measures as 
may be required, will be indented, — beginning the several scales thus indented at the proper distances from either end, 
so that the scales may be as single and little complicated as possible. The several scales will be distinguished by 
different characters or letters. In place of the scales being indented on the Ruler, they may be made of separate 
pieces of wood, metal, or stiff' paper, and attached to the Ruler by springs placed across the Ruler, so as to confine the 
scales on the surface of the Ruler, at the edge. In this case, it would be well to form a groove or shoulder lengthwise 
the Ruler, from the edge a half inch back, which space will be fitted with the scales. 



TER3IS. 

Treatise on Cutlmg Garments, - - - - - - - - - - - $10 00 

Do. do. to those who have previously purchased a Book on Cutting from us or either 

of our predecessors, -------------3 00 

New York Report of Fashions, per annum, 4 00 

Do. do. do. single copy, -.--...-■- 2 00 

London Report of Fashions, per annum, 1 00 

Minor of Fashion, .--.----------100 

Square and Scales, -..----.---.-- 3 00 

New Square with proportions indented, ......... -3 OO 

Paper Square, for pasting on a plain square — to be sent by mail, 1 00 

Tailors' Shears, Tapes, Crayons, d|-c., i^-c, conslanlltj on hand and for sale as low as can be purchased elseiehen 



PL. ATE, X"! 




/•J/ir/fro// /.///it'y/y/y>//f /■ ^^ 'J/^/fii 'Sfr .1.7. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE No. 1. 

Fig. 2. — E)rf.ss Coat. 

1st. Take the size ot" waist and breast under coat. Then hutton the coat, and mark on the back seam at the top, 
and at 3 opposite the shoulder blade, and at 4 as the length of waist. 

2d. Then measure from 1 to 3 and 4 and 5 as the length of the coat. 

3d. From 2 on back seam to the width of back, extending the measure to the elbow, and to the length of sleeve at 
the hand. 

4th. Take measures of the arm at 6, 7, and the wrist, and hand. 

5th. From 1 to length of breast, or lapelle at front. 

6th. From 1 by front of scye on line E to top of hip at 8 ; being from - - - - - - 1 to 8 

7th. From 1 by front of scyo on line D to waist, u ^ ..... 1 to 4 

Stli. From 1 by front of scyc on line C to 3 on back scam, " " ■ - - - - - 1 to 3 

*9th. From 1 on line A by front of scye, and round to 1, " " - - - - - 1 to 1 

*10th. From 2 on back seam over the shoulder, around by front of scye, and back on line 2 to 2, - - 2 to 2 

N. B. — Point 2 on back seam is at the centre of the back between the shoulders. For drafting, select the scales* 
corresponding with measures 9 and 10, being the measures taken from the socket-bone aroimd the scye to the same 
place, or from 1 to 1, and from the centre of the back between the shoulders around by front of scyc to the same 
place, or from 2 to 2. The measure from 1 to 1 is called the upper shoulder measure, and the one from 2 to 2, 
the lower. 

For Over Coats, the measures of breast and waist will be taken over the body coat, and there should be an allowance 
of one inch to the measure from 1 to 1 and from 2 to 2 each. 

(Cr" For application of Pi-nof measures, see Plate 3, and the directions. 

Fig. 1. — Vest. 

1st. Take the size of breast and waist under coat. 

2d. Then measure by line A from socket-bone to length at front. 

3d. From socket-bone, by line B, to length at the hip. 

4th. From 2 to 2 on Fig. 2. 

•5th. From 1 to 1 on do. 

Fig. 1. — Pantaloons. 

Measure from 1 at top of pantaloons at the side, to 2 at top of hip-bone ; from thence extend the measure down to 
3 at the knee, and to 4 at the bottom to the length required. Then take the length of the inside seam. Then measure 
the waist at the smallest place between the lower rib and hip. Then measure round the hips at 2 by line C. Then 
round at the most prominent part of hips, as line D. Then round the thigh at fork, as line E. Then round knee at 
F — calf at G — ankle at H, and foot at I. Then measure across the sole where line I passes under the foot. Then 
measure from line I at the sole, at the inside, around the heel, to the line at the outside of the foot. Then measure 
from the sole where the heel commences around the heel to the opposite side. 

N. B. — There is no necessity for measuring around the foot except for gaiter-bottoms- and pants that strap down 
closely. 



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PLATE, 1. 




SEE PLATE 10-ON MEASUREMENT FOR DRAFTING PLATE 11. 



BY J. G. WILSON. 



Back vievv.-Pass a line or inch n.easure around the shoulders, as represented by lines A, about as t.ght as the 
customer would wish to wear h.s coat, let h.m sw.ng his arms as if at work, so that the cross at 2 establ.shes a starting 
; Then see the size of the double shoulder-.easure, and take the distance from 1 to 2, 3 and 4. Then measure 

om 2 to 5 as width of back, on line D. Then see front view-Place your thumb close against the fron of scye a 
iHn tie end of your measure, and go 5 inches for the distance to 12, (see line H.) Then make a chalk mark a 
12. Then start the measure from 2 over the shoulder, as line B to 12. Hold your thun.b on he measure at 12 (th 
same as taken from 2 to 12,) and take the distance up to 1, or .he socket-bone. Then take the ^-i-- ^^ \^ 
3_see line E. Then from 12 to 6 over the most prominent part of the shou er-blade_see line C Take the d, a 
around the scye, or measure around the shouldei-jomt where the scye would naturally come. Then take the length 
of coat, length of arm, length of lapelle, the sizes around the breast and waist, and the hip, as shown by lino I. 
Explanation of Measiiremenl hi Plate ^•o. 1 to apply m Drafting Plate 12. 
Place the short arm of the Square under one of the arms, letting the long arm extend across the back ; place the 
Hat of your hand under the other arm, and let the long arm of the square rest upon it ; sqi-are close up under he arm 
then make a dot at 3, and remove the square ; then take the distance iVom 1 to 3 and 4. Ihen measure from 1 around 

1 shoulder to 1 again, and from 2 around the shoulder to 2 again. Then take the length of elbow and sleeve fi-on 
the centre of the back, and the sizes of the arm at 6 and 7, and the hand. Then take the size of Breast and > a . 
..ider the coat, and length of lapelle. t^ The measure from 1 to 1 is called the Upper Shoulder Measure and to 

2 to 2 the Lower Shoulder Measure. J^ The Lower Shoulder Measure is placed upon the Square, and called Table 
4 . the Upper Shoulder Measure is placed upon the Square, and called Table D. ^ The points to be established 
;„ draftm^^ so as to allow the proper proportions of each measure to effect their appropriate bearings in giving i^t and 

ha ab: t the shoulders, are du'l v explained in the directions for drafting the coat : see Plato 10..^ Place a plumb- 
Hne at the front of scye at 13, and let the lead drop below the hips. Mark at the hollow of the waist under the lie, 
1, measure from thence to the centre of back at tack. This measure is applied from 20 to 21 in Plate 12. (CT H- 
measure is recommended for use on forms of unnatural attitude only. =C3 

Observations on Plates 1 and 12. 
In obtaining the distance from 1 to 3 in measunng-if the man is round-shouldered, this distance ,s increased 
accordm. to the natural variation from a correct form ; and the spring of the coat from 9 to 21 and 2S is decreased. 
The up :r shoulder-measure being shorter than for a man standing erect, shortens the point at 12, whilst it lengthens 
the d. tance from 1 to 4 ; and the lower shoulder-measure being the largest for this form of persons, increases the 
distance iVom the centre of the back to the front of scye. For a man standing erect, the ^v^iole draft is reversed to 

olm with his shape. After thus forming the shoulders above the horizontal line at ^ ^•^--; J ^ -^;;; 
obtaimng the distance from 1 to 3 in measurement, if there should be an error ot half an inch in taking that distance 
U will «:. materially atfect the coat, as the proportions above the line are regulated by the .J -">"^;'7; . ^^^ ^^^ 
haviii. formed that part of the coat above the line drawn at the bottom of the scye, you will then proceed to form the 

r , part of.the c at by the waist-mca^ure. Sweep from 3 to 21 at 7, then square out horn 20 to 21 to where one- 
quaner of the waist-measure will touch the sweep from 3 to 21, and this forms point 21. and sel.-varies the pitch 

at the waist according to the measure. mnsures 

In drafting the back, the angles that are formed from 1 to 5 and 4, are self-varied according to the measures 

taken so that the scye-gorge will be varied according to any fashion or form of man. , „ ,. 

T teve-heal is^ob^ained by the same principle of angles with that of the back, so that tor ^> ---'-- 
of men, or changes of iashion, it will self-vary, so as to give the correct distance from the centre of the back to the 
front of scye, as is shown from 1 to 6 on sleeve draft. 



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